A haunting compilation of the greatest hits

Applause rang out from the speakers in London's historic Central Criminal Court of England and Wales at the opening of Simone Rocha's spring 2025 show. Dressed all in black, with double crystal barrettes in her hair and a pair of silky-pink ballet flats on her feet, her arms crossed across her midsection, the first model to walk the runway set the mood for the rest of the collection: punk-goth-priestess-ballerina, in a way that only Simone Rocha could pull off.

Tulle and tutus dominated the opening looks of the collection. There were sheer, airy fabrics, embroidered crystal flowers on underwear, high rhinestone-studded socks with loafers and jewelled collars. Some sweaters and bodysuits featured the haunting image of a grimacing woman from the painting by Genieve Figgis. Lady with bird (2013). A mixture of classical songs and contemporary music is played, including a version of Send in the clowns sung by Dame Judi Dench and Paul Ankas I love you baby.

The collection was full of the brand's greatest hits, taken apart and reassembled for a new era of Simone Rocha fans. Highlights of the collection included the extreme ballerina tutus paired with cut-out sweaters and outerwear, some artfully draped over the stiff and dramatic fabric. Rocha took a cue from last season, placing flowers everywhere: under fabrics, exploding from breasts, sculptural roses under light tulle. Functional zip-up jackets and matching shorts were woven through the more feminine and formal collection, with an eye for all things plus-size. Denim was big and shapeless or in corset jackets covered in glittery gems. And there was color: just a few splashes of bright green tulle or raspberry satin.

Of course, accessories were a must. The classic egg-shaped bag was transformed into a swan-shaped one; elsewhere, models carried huge, ruffled tulle bags. Long crystal earrings hung from clothes and there were plenty of Simone Rocha's signature embellishments, like crystal beaded flowers on baby-pink men's suits. Sheer wonders and puff-sleeved dresses were pulled back to reveal underwear, a styling trick that clearly expressed the line between sweet and flirty that Rocha always crosses.

Simone Rocha has never been a brand that values ​​restraint or understated dressing, and that ethos was evident in the Spring 2025 collection. Simone Rocha fans aren't afraid to take up space. In fact, they demand it – through her sweeping tutus and big, draped dresses and coats seen towards the end of the show. The message was clear: big, then bigger, with shape, volume and personality.