Jean-Christophe Babin: «Bulgari writes watchmaking history»

In conversation with finews.ch the Bulgari CEO talks about the brand's evolution from its roots in luxury jewelry to a major force in the Swiss watch industry. As a key initiator of the “Geneva Watch Days,” Babin unveils the most complex watch in the company's history and explains how he drives the brand forward with technical achievements and unique artistic collaborations. He also reveals his take on the recent CEO change in LVMH's watch division.

Mr. Babin, many people know Bulgari primarily as an Italian jeweler, rather than as a Swiss watchmaker. We are meeting at the Geneva Watch Days, where you are a key force. Does this event strengthen Bulgari's image in the watch sector?

Indeed, this fair helps to increase Bulgari's visibility as a watchmaker. In April we take part in “Watches and Wonders”, in late summer we have a strong presence at the “Geneva Watch Days” and of course at the beginning of each year we are part of the “LVMH Watch Week”. Such events help to raise our profile.

Bulgari was founded 140 years ago. How did the brand evolve from a jewelry manufacturer to a watch manufacturer?

Bulgari began making watches in 1919, not long after our debut as jewelers. The first timepieces were jewellery watches for women, designed as part of a “parure” set that included a necklace, ring, earrings, bracelet and watch – made entirely of platinum and diamonds. This tradition continued until the 1970s, when we began creating everyday watches for women with the Tubogas collection, which paved the way for the iconic Serpenti line. In 1975, we expanded our offering to men's watches, appealing to a wider audience, with the launch of the Bulgari-Bulgari collection.

Since when has Bulgari been sitting at the table with the manufacturers of big problems?

This milestone was reached in 2000 when we won the prestigious watch brands Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth. Today, Bulgari is the only Swiss watch brand that produces a wide range of timepieces – from grand events and jewelry watches to ladies' and men's watches. This diversity is precisely why we participate in several industry events; with such a diverse portfolio, it is essential to showcase innovations on different platforms.

How do you differ from other luxury watch manufacturers?

Our historical heritage of jewellery watches is a cornerstone of our identity and remains one of our most promising growth areas. (Shows a model) Consider this piece – 80 percent of it is jewelry, yet it features a tiny but intricate mechanical movement, the smallest in the world – it weighs just 1.2 grams.

“We have redefined the ultra-small mechanical movement for the 21st century”

We call it “Piccolissimo”, similar to our “Finissimo”, another world record – this time not for its thinness, but for its miniature size. Small mechanical movements disappeared during the quartz crisis in the 1970s, but we redefined the ultra-small mechanical movement for the 21st century. In many ways, Bulgari continues to shape the future of watchmaking.

What did you present at the “Geneva Watch Days” this year?

Before I get to the highlights of this year's Geneva Watch Days, I would like to introduce you to the thinnest Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC chronometer watch, measuring just 1.7 millimeters. It is one of the most significant innovations of the last decade and marks our ninth consecutive world record. (Shows another Octo Finissimo) Another notable result is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, which was awarded the prestigious «Aiguille d'Or» at the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, thanks to its exceptional combination of technical innovation and iconic design. I am confident that we will continue to receive recognition for our innovations this year.

Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon. (Image: Bulgari, zVg)

Well: At this year's Geneva Watch Days, we are presenting an exciting collection under the theme “The Sound of Bulgari”. We are presenting the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie, our most complex watch to date, which features a minute repeater with a unique melody of Lorenzo Viotti The Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon featured a tourbillon together with a minute repeater and three hammers. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon impresses with its sleek design and sophisticated sound function. We are also celebrating 70 years of the Stratocaster with the Bulgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition. And finally, the Serpenti Pallini High Jewellery enchants with the Piccolissimo caliber, a miniature wonder.

Tell us about the watch you are currently wearing.

This is the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon, a piece that we developed and officially launch today in collaboration with Lorenzo Viotti, the Italian-Swiss conductor and current chief conductor of the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra and the Dutch National Opera. He has an exceptional talent in the world of classical music and has brought his remarkable artistry and expertise to this unique watch creation.

How did this collaboration come about?

Viotti has a passion for clocks. He was surprised that most bell clocks play the same melody. In conversation with him and Antoine Pinthe head of our watchmaking division, the idea of ​​creating something truly new was born. Two months later, Viotti came back with a proposal and spent weeks working with our master watchmakers in Le Sentier to compose a new melody. Instead of using the conventional Westminster chimes, we came up with a completely new sound that opens a new chapter in the world of chiming clocks.

What makes this carillon so unique?

The fact that we are working with a renowned musician to redefine the melody of a striking clock is already novel. And while most striking clocks use symmetrical intervals, Viotti used the tritone interval. It is a musical concept with centuries of history that creates excitement and liveliness – perfect for an Italian brand like Bulgari. We spent two years perfecting this new melody, which is different from the familiar Westminster or Big Ben tones.

“The clockwork alone consists of 900 components that serve exclusively for the striking mechanism”

From a technical point of view: What was the biggest challenge in developing this new melody?

Traditional carillons strike at regular intervals. But to achieve asymmetry in the strikes, we had to completely redesign the hammer mechanism. Now the hammers strike at irregular intervals – first half a second, then a quarter, and then half again. This is a variation that has never been seen before and a significant technical breakthrough. The complexity is astonishing; in the movement, 900 components are dedicated to the striking mechanism alone.

900 individual parts, just for the carillon?

Yes, and this redefinition of the melody after 200 years of tradition is the real achievement: to do this, we had to further develop the hammer technology while keeping the rest of the design of the watch deliberately modern. Although it is a limited edition of just five pieces, each costing one million euros, it is a modern accessory for a much younger clientele than 30 years ago.

You are expanding into the world of music. Why?

We work exclusively with artists from various fields – whether it is conductors like Beatrice Venezi and Lorenzo Viotti, actresses like Zendaya and Anne Hathaway or musicians like Lisa by Blackpink. These collaborations go beyond simple advertising partnerships; by also contributing to product development. Music has the ability to create resonance and evoke emotions. This adds a deep emotional dimension to watches. By offering something new not only in technical craftsmanship but also in emotional experience, we take our creations to a new level.

CEO Babin (far right) with conductor Lorenzo Viotti (next to him) and other Bulgari representatives. (Image: Bulgari, zVg)

The brand is part of the watch division of LVMH, where some management changes were recently announced.

Yes, several important appointments have been made, including Julien Tornarewho moves to Hublot, and Antoine Pinwho is joining TAG Heuer as CEO. These strategic insights may seem coincidental, but in reality they are a testament to the dynamic development and fresh perspectives of our Group. They underline our intention to bring new energy and innovation to our brands and position ourselves for even greater success in the industry.

Who will replace Antoine Pin as head of watches at Bulgari?

His successor is Jonathan Brinbaum. Until recently, he was head of Bulgari's fragrance department, which is based in Neuchâtel – directly below our watch floor. I fully support his promotion. I myself moved from the consumer goods industry to the watch world in 2000. Jonathan is extremely intelligent and adaptable. His open-mindedness and curiosity will certainly make him successful in this new role.

“I am very happy where I am. Apparently the management at Bulgari is also happy with my contributions”

How do you assess Antoine Pin’s mistakes at Bulgari?

Antoine's appointment as CEO of TAG Heuer is well deserved. With his outstanding track record at Bulgari and his previous achievements at TAG Heuer, he has clearly demonstrated his leadership skills. While Bulgari's watch division represents only a part of the brand, leading TAG Heuer will allow him to transfer his expertise to an entire company and drive TAG Heuer forward strategically.

As one of the few top managers in the LVMH watch world, you will remain in your current position.

As for me, I am very happy where I am. Apparently the management at Bulgari is also happy with my contributions.

For 11 years Jean-Christophe Babin CEO of Bulgari. The Italian luxury brand is known for its high-quality jewelry, watches and accessories. Before this role, Babin served as CEO of TAG Heuer. His tenure at Bulgari expanded the brand's global presence and strengthened its reputation for innovation in both jewelry and watchmaking. Industry experts estimate that Bulgari's sales more than doubled to approximately $3.5 billion under Babin's leadership. Before working in the luxury goods industry, Babin, who earned an MBA from HEC Paris, worked in various positions in the consumer goods industry and in strategic consulting. In 2020, he played a key role in the founding of Geneva Watch Days, a major industry trade fair.