Amsterdam Fashion Week 2024: The highlights

The first week of September is over and with it Amsterdam Fashion Week 2024. In addition to numerous presentations, which often focus on the topic of upcycling, the program also offers many events open to the public. Some events were particularly memorable. We have summarized them for you here.

Martan's opening show despite stormy weather

The Amsterdam fashion label Martan opened the fashion week with the show “Tempest Tides” and presented a skilfully executed SS25 ready-to-wear collection. This includes jackets, tops, trousers and accessories, all made from recycled materials. Particularly striking was the use of spinnaker sails, which were incorporated into both the set and the accessories.

Martan demonstrated his ability to innovate without consuming new resources. The show highlighted the upcycling expertise of designers Douwe Boer, Diek Pothoven and Eugénie Mulier and conveyed a strong message: “Why produce new material when we can dress six more generations with what already exists?” Sustainability is no longer an option, but a necessity. “This is the core of our company and I believe that every fashion brand should take this path,” said designer De Boer in an interview with FashionUnited after the show.

Studio Hagel opens its doors to AFW visitors

Studio Hagel, which celebrates its tenth anniversary next year, opened its doors to the public for the first time. The studio was transformed for this special occasion. A variety of blocks wrapped in blue foil break up the white space and serve as an exhibition space for creations such as Nike sneakers with old swimming caps, shoes given a new look by the outline of an old vacuum cleaner hose and, of course, the popular Adidas Sambas wrapped in old cotton cloths.

Studio Hagel has been using the studio as a playground for almost ten years to develop shoe designs that are unrivalled. And that is exactly the goal: to use shoe techniques that have never been used before. For this reason, the shoes are often unwearable. But through collaborations with brands such as Off-White, Valentino and Asics, their work has gained a lot of attention. The most important market for Studio Hagel is the USA, followed by South Korea and the Netherlands. The experimental shoe design studio took part in the AFW this year to increase its visibility in the Netherlands.

Tess van Zalinge: Menswear, double looks and a collaboration with Nortvi

Tess van Zalinge's couture collection was presented in the industrial setting of Studio 3000 in Amsterdam-Noord. The Dutch designer teamed up with Dutch luggage brand Nortvi for this special collection. All garments were made from recycled materials from Nortvi suitcases and transformed into extraordinary two-piece creations.

The audience entered the show through the backstage area, giving them a glimpse into the heart of Van Zalinge's creative world. The models, including Jazz Ben Khalifa, Elois van Oranje and Stijn de Vries, stood in front of their own racks of clothes and were prepared for the show. Each look was showcased during the show as the models walked in zigzag lines through the white space.

Max Zara Sterck delights in the costume studio of the National Opera and the State Ballet

Designer Max Zara Sterck's love of dance was more than evident during her show on Thursday evening. The location – the costume studio of the National Opera & State Ballet – was the perfect place, mysterious yet functional.

The show was divided into different sections. It began with a unique piece of music, to which the designer herself recited a poem. To this piece, various soloists from the National Opera and the State Ballet moved in a hypnotic manner between the cutting tables in the studio. After an initial dance sequence, the first designs appeared on the catwalk. The first series of looks was followed by a second round of dancing – this time on the cutting tables. As the intensity of the dance increased, so did the intensity of the designs shown.

The designs included recognizable elements of Sterck's signature. Many pieces were draped, had cutouts or open spaces, and were decorated with woven ribbons. Although not every piece was equally strong technically, the second half of the show was a highlight with its various suits that drew an asymmetrical silhouette. The denim versions in particular appear modern, but also commercially promising.

The show ended with a live lecture by the designer, which evoked strong emotions in many viewers. When it comes to the art of performance, Max Zara Sterck knows how to capture the audience's attention.

Yousra Razine Mahrah provided insights into Moroccan culture

Friday evening began with a show by Yousra Razine Mahrah, winner of the Lichting Award 2023. The audience was invited to the De Hallen Studios, where an intimate atmosphere was created. The lighting bathed the hall in red light, while spectators filled the tiers around the catwalk. The scenery gave the room a warm feel, with fans being waved here and there.

When Mahrah presented her collection “Kabouda – for the culture”, the red lighting changed to white light so that the audience did not miss a single detail of the beautiful garments. The creations show different facets of Moroccan culture. One of the most impressive outfits was a sand-colored dress decorated with pearls. At the back, the designer played with volume by giving the dress a wing-like shape. Another model walked down the catwalk with a replica of a Moroccan vase on her head. It was obvious that Mahrah captivated the audience, as cheers and applause could be heard throughout the show.

Denzel Veerkamp: Live music, dancing models and a serious message

On the last day of Amsterdam Fashion Week, Denzel Veerkamp showed that his style of upcycling is not only sustainable, but can also be thought-provoking and entertaining. The Dutch-Surinamese designer was inspired by his recent visit to Suriname for his collection “Abrasei” (Dutch for “overseas”). What was striking about the collection was the unique combination of Afro-Surinamese fashion with Western influences, which was made exclusively from upcycled materials, such as the waterproof and robust fabric of the legendary “Ghana Must Go” bag. With this, Veerkamp told the story of the Afro-Surinamese diaspora, which has always made the best of every situation despite the challenges posed by the greed of other countries.

His debut show, held at Studio Weiman in Amsterdam-Noord, attracted a large audience despite the overlap with the popular Lichting show. Veerkamp uses fashion as a means of storytelling and uses his designs to draw attention to political issues that are still relevant today. During the show, this was powerfully underlined by a Dutch radio recording that talked about the arrival of Suriname in the Netherlands and the view that the Netherlands is “too crowded”.

Despite the serious message, the show was full of energy and joie de vivre. With live music and a finale where the models dance down the runway, the mood was exuberant. The show was a joyful recognition of the daily struggle people face to improve their lives. Veerkamp showed off his skills by transforming each piece of clothing, including fabrics printed with the name “Gucci” and boxer shorts, into colorful, upcycled designs with Afro-Surinamese influences. Following the show, the evening ended with music, dancing and Surinamese food.

AFW debutant Johnny Blood celebrates one last time at the closed nightclub De School

Photography and filming were forbidden for the invited guests. Johnny Blood, debutant at the AFW, had the honor of closing Amsterdam Fashion Week. He held his show in a former nightclub, where he celebrated the evening for himself and the audience. What happens at school stays at school.

The audience got this message and showed up in daring outfits – leather combined with dramatic make-up; everyone was ready for a night of dancing. The show took place in the basement, where white light illuminated the room while creating an intimate atmosphere. Johnny Blood is known for his clubwear, which focuses on upcycling vintage clothing and embroidery. The “Ephemeral” collection was inspired by the “underground club scene” and reflected the mix of people in the nightlife.

“Ephemeral” had an edgy, yet elegant look. The play of lines created by long fabric panels on the garments represents bondage. This was complemented by latex, often in combination with piercings, rivets and chains. The models play through the audience with an intense look and at a fast pace to the hard beats of the music. The white creations, which went hand in hand with embroidery and transparent silk, created a certain lightness. When the “White Horse” walked through the audience as the last model and disappeared behind the curtain, there was thunderous applause – Johnny Blood had let his fans celebrate one last time in De School.

This article was written with the collaboration of FashionUnited editors Caitlyn Terra, Susan Zijp and Sylvana Lijbaart and appeared on FashionUnited.nl. Translation using AI.*